Maryville, TN, HVAC Company and Plumber

Every low voltage system on the unit has been bypassed and wired around. There is clear damage to all of the low voltage systems of electrical shorts. We did find a broke low voltage wire at the outdoor unit that had melted. On the high voltage side, I replaced the main breaker from the outdoor unit, the buss bar that the breaker hooks into is melted from over heated, this has damaged the main panel, to the point it will have to be replaced. The cause of the high voltage over heating, is the condenser compress, the main lugs on the compressor have melted, the wires have melted, and the wire terminals have melted. The high voltage to the compressor are so far gone I am unable to get an accurate reading on if the internal windings are good or bad, based on the amount of bypass work and adding multiple capacitors and the existence of a hard start cap, which killed the compressor. The unit compressor is bad. The fact that this is an R-22 reciprocation compressor from Bristol, they

We preformed and inspection on the unit, the unit inspected good, the Evap coil is clear, the filters need to be changed. I increased to blower speed and increased the air flow to the back bedroom to 160CFM. The unit delta T is 14F. The unit is low on charge based on the numbers against the increased air flow. We added R-410A to increase the operating pressures and increase the unit sub cooling. I have the subcooling and pressures where they need to be. The delta in the bed room is 13F the delta at the first vent off of the unit is 16F The issue is, the duct work is the same 12in, all the way through, the truck line will have to be modified, to increase air volume and decrease air velocity. We also need to move a vent from the closet to the bed room, maybe 4ft of 6in flex.

36/Jun/25 2013 Goodman split HP System was flat on arrival, pressurized the system to 250psig of nitrogen for 15mins, on a standing leak test. I increased the static pressure to 400psig, the system is holding pressure as of the time of this test. The system passed the positive pressure test with no issues. The system passed the negative pressure test as well. I replaced the valve cores at the service to mid agate the risk of a leak on the service ports. Restored the system to factory charge. The systems refrigerant pressures are on point to the conditions. The system is currently producing a 18F temperature split inside the house and improving. The unit tested leak free and is currently operational as of this visit.

For this job, the thermostat was set to 75°. The technician lowered the temperature on the thermostat to 70 and opened baseboard registers. System is cooling sufficiently, temperature just needs to be sent appropriately and registers kept open.

For this job, I tested all electrical components. Capacitor is bad and lack of refrigerant. Has set off safety switches, locking condenser from starting estimate to search for leak and add refrigerant has been sent.

Blower motor with ecm has failed. No oem motors close by in stock and would take a week to get. This estimate is for a rescue ecm blower motor replacement.

I encountered an error code E7 and H7 on the head. This error code indicated a mode conflict and a communication error between the condenser and the heads. Upon further investigation, I discovered that the high voltage in the terminal block had melted the wires heading out to the unit. This required immediate repair before proceeding with the diagnostic process to determine if the compressor or compressor DC inverted control board was good. After repairing the high voltage, I was able to start the system, but it was throwing a desync of the compressor code. Tech support advised that the condenser compressor was over ohm, causing it to not start. They recommended replacing the compressor to resolve the issue. Overall, the job required a combination of electrical repairs and compressor replacement to ensure the system was functioning properly.

For this free inspection, I inspected the home HVAC system and water heater. HVAC system is a 2010 Train 5 ton heat pump split. Water heater is a 19 9950 gallon electric water heater with no TPV and no expansion tank. Recommended Repairs and/or replacements estimate will be sent via email. All electronic components in HVAC system seem to be operating normally. A 5 ton HVAC unit may be oversized for this house, will speak to my engineer. * if customer has plans to finish basement, it is highly recommended that ductwork insulation be replaced due to mold and discoloration.

I replaced all the breakers in the existing breaker box and reconditioned the existing panel.

Technician checked amperage on all major electrical systems including compressor, condenser fan motor,and blower motor. The technician also cleaned the condenser.Checked the filter. Checked defrost board and control board for any loose wires or burn marks. Checked all system capacitors to ensure healthy MFD range. Checked to ensure refrigerant levels were in a healthy range. Operated the unit in cool to ensure proper operation. Technician found bad capacitor and found very dirty slab coil. Tech also found condenser coil is very dirty and can’t breath. Pictures attached. Maintenance

Technician checked amperage on all major electrical systems including compressor, condenser fan motor,and blower motor. The technician also cleaned the condenser.Checked the filter. Checked defrost board and control board for any loose wires or burn marks. Checked all system capacitors to ensure healthy MFD range. Checked to ensure refrigerant levels were in a healthy range. Operated the unit in cool to ensure proper operation. Tech did find a few electrical problems and homeowners wants estimate. Pictures attached.

Technician checked amperage on all major electrical systems including compressor, condenser fan motor,and blower motor. The technician also cleaned the condenser.Checked the filter. Checked defrost board and control board for any loose wires or burn marks. Checked all system capacitors to ensure healthy MFD range. Checked to ensure refrigerant levels were in a healthy range. Operated the unit in cool to ensure proper operation. Tech found very dirty condenser coil. Tech cleaned to help air flow. Pictures attached.

Technician checked amperage on all major electrical systems including compressor, condenser fan motor,and blower motor. The technician also cleaned the condenser.Checked the filter. Checked defrost board and control board for any loose wires or burn marks. Checked all system capacitors to ensure healthy MFD range. Checked to ensure refrigerant levels were in a healthy range. Operated the unit in cool to ensure proper operation. Tech did find stuck 60 amp breaker on upstairs air handler. Tech also found 2 weakening capacitors. Pictures attached.

Notes in company cam. Kitchen sink and dishwasher flooded out two units. Cleared line with a snake a ran water and started correcting plumbing issues under the sink.

Our technician installed a Laundry Pro washing machine, equipped with advanced stain-fighting technology.

I installed a new furnace in a home.

When tech arrived, furnace was not running and faulted out for pressure switch. After investigating tech confirmed the pressure switch was bad. Tech replaced pressure switch and cleaned inside the furnace do to flammable debris in the cabinet. Furnace is running as it should at this time. Recommendation Replace flame sensor switch Replace hot surface igniter Safety inspection on furnace

I was called to a home to repair a furnace that was not working. I arrived and found that the furnace was not getting power. I checked the circuit breaker and found that it was tripped. I reset the breaker and the furnace started working again.

Plumbing repair. Inspected a leaking pipe under the kitchen sink and discovered a worn-out seal causing the issue. To solve the problem, I replaced the damaged seal with a new, durable one and reinforced the connection to prevent future leaks. After testing the repair, I confirmed the plumbing was functioning perfectly again.

Went out to complete a plumbing repair. Inspected the toilet and discovered that a worn-out flapper was causing continuous water leakage into the bowl. After carefully removing the faulty part, I replaced it with a new, high-quality flapper to restore proper functionality. Once the repair was complete, the toilet flushed efficiently.

Tech found bad 30 amp fuse. When unit turned on the tech waited 10 minutes to insure the unit is running properly. Unit is running as it should at this time.